Right. So, Amsterdam. I spent two days there after my last post. What happened?
IN the morning, Cindy and I smoked a few spliffs and made breakfast for our lovely host. Seeing Gabs roll over with tired eyes (and tired minds, for EIS fans), almost onto a few fried eggs, toast, and some tea, was quite a sight and a great way to begin the day, as everybody who knows Gabs knows her smile is infectious. From there we made preparations, hung out with Gabs for a bit, then went to the outdoor market near where Gabs lives. This place is chock full of tiny knick-knacks, huge throws, hemp made clothing, bright scarves and sweaters, and all manner of delicious foods. It is so much fun to release your control in a place like this and sit, as on the edge of the ocean, with waves of color and smells and people washing over you, forcing your head towards the sky.
Schwarma is and the prices are negotiable. The Egyptians serving us are a small family, all smiling, and the men keep calling Gabs the beautiful girl. I think it's a good nickname so I use it a few times. Perhaps it will stick. Towards the edge of the market, Cindy finds an Ethiopian pillow case she would like, so she asks the tall, dark, rasta man with big teeth how much it is. Smiling he shakes his head. "I don't know," he says, and gives us a sheepish smile with a few breathy giggles. He is obviously not sober. I think to myself, this must be a bargaining tactic, so we try to rephrase the question and have him answer. He simply says the boss left him here, but he doesn't know the prices, but he doesnt want to he boss to be mad at him. He asks us how much we think it is. I am definitely suspicious now, being from the States I have an inborn mistrust of people's genuineness. Cindy says she does not know but she'd like to buy it. Maybe 5 euro she says, a very low price for such an item. The man simply laughs, holding both hands awkwardly high around his shoulders and swiveling a bit, his eyes vacant. In a very cute voice he echoes, "I don't know, I think this is ok." His eyes laugh and hug us as cindy pays and we go on our now merrier way.
From the market, Gabs and her friends leave us to go to class, abandoning Cindy and I to the city. Coffee shops, coffee shops, coffee shops.
I have been craving beer ever since Ireland, so we finally find a nice pub with outdoor seating and we settle down with a delicious Lechasse and of course a spliff to people watch. Anytime I am by water I feel more fluid, less tense and more natural. Amsterdam is crisscrossed and inlaid with canals, making the whole place feel...good.
We go to the Van Gogh museum with the passes Gabs provided for us.
Peasant workers turning to oil drills in the night sky. Every old man looks like Freud. The sky bleeds through the trees. Theo stares from beeath the Walnut tree. He now up points.
Ferdinand Hodler hobbeling blankly van gogh's step pedestal on his way to the sky's ocean felled rhythm into the paintings, brought color-motion.
George Frederic Watt's After the 21st Day, check it out. The waters themselves obey the great power and instead of touching upon the earth are ever-hovering as mist.
The wheat painting: Reaping, Levin stands above. All over bending, warping in his eye to sway down, as in prayer, if the scythe were to pass above, the wheat.
We've got to get back to meet up with Zeneva, Steven, and Gabs for dinner, but we can't resist another coffee shop. The relaxed atmosphere of Amsterdam has sunk deep into me now, time is relative, everyone is a friend, and all roads lead towards home, eventually. All water toward the ocean.
Getting back we find Zeneva and Steven, like little pixies flitting across the street. Bubbly, they relate their simple day and we relate ours back. A simple ritual, but it brings us closer.
We make a delicious dinner, share it with Stevie and Mariza.
I leave to speak with my parents. I miss them very much now. Each day on the road means more excitement, adventure, connection with people and places, and more knowledge of myself, but it also means less grounding, and less of an ability to completely unhinge in the way you can hwen you are at home, or with your family. I cannot wait to see them in a few weeks.
We go out to Blue Bird for late night vap'ing in a pretty big group. All is happy. A washed up version of Roger Waters has made an amazing playlist of Pink Floyd, all the songs from different albums flowing into each other seemlessly. He grins vacantly from behind the counter, a cannabis businessman.
The next day the morning repeats itself. Spliffs, breakfast, Gabs' smile, hang out. But Gabs has class earlier so Cindy and I hit the city with power and passion. We go to a thrift store where a beautiful canadian girl in a belly shirt and long, long straight chocolate hippy-hair sells cindy a pair of shoes.
We walk in the direction of the Anne Frank house. I am slowly realizing how effectively art is incorporated into this city. Benches, parks, buildings, traffic indications all are consciously aesthetically designed.
I love the street art here.

We go to Anne Frank house and stay for a long while. The place is overwhelming in its reality. Nothing is just a story. When I am in the annex, much of the separation disappears. I imagine my family in such a situation. I imagine the fear, the horror, the confusion, and utter lack of understanding. I think of what it would be like to live with suppression of noise and movement, not leaving a set of rooms, always with a mind to what the outside thinks, sees, hears. To run and shout and scream and jump are basic human rights.
The people stare at themselves in holocaust mirrors, then pass on then pass on. It's true they say, the time of these walls is gone and yet they pen in droves of wool clothed walkers every day. They will always have power.
Back into the city is a tough transition but Cindy makes it easier. She is very easy to travel with.
We go back to Gabs, to cook, to clean, to hangout and do laundry. Tomorrow begins the hitch-hiking adventure. Of course we go back to Blue Bird, pick up, and say hi to the workers there. One gives us all free lighters.
When we get back to Gabs' place, we sit and smoke by the water. The lights reflect, the buildings look like stairways up from some less solid, fluid world. I love this moment. The chill of an Amsterdam night just barely holding off, my friends on the bench beside me, our eyes trained outwards but the feeling comes from each other. I tear up. How beautiful that we can do this, that this moment is here and ours.
I am ready to leave. This has been magical. In the morning, we will kiss Gabs goodbye and walk to the liftplaats to hitchhike.
We get to the liftplaats between 9 and 10. Cindy makes the signs as she has better handwriting. Berlin. A1. Amersfoort. Osnabruck. Anything along the way, please.
A man from Holand with a 20 yar old son and 21 year old daughter picks us up from the gas station. He saw us getting water, and checked us out a bit before offering a ride. He is worried about cindy, and jokes about not letting us out of the car. Hahaha. He is very nice, a bit strict and very proper. He seems German but is not. He drops us off another 60 k or so down the road. He is a very kind man and I get to talk with him about his children and about his wife.
Then we see a young man who was just shirtless and dancing about motions to us. I am a bit wary as he points to his truck. But he seems very, very excited. Goofy. I had no idea then that I would spend the next 24 hours with this man, his highs and lows (mostly highs) and his innocence and quirkiness.
He says he is going to Estonia and will right by Berlin on the highway. We say that's fantastic, and get in the truck. It becomes immediately apparent that he is not normal, not from this planet. He is always smiling, saying things in a strange cartoonish voice and exaggerating the english syllables. I try to speak a bit of russian with him, but I have a lot of trouble.
Cindy immediately takes a liking to him, sitting in the passenger seat and smiling her coy smile.

We drive with him a long way, hearing of how he hates Estonia, how he just wants a place to settle down with a girl. Maybe Norway. His eyes go glassy as he talks about a solid job and a girl, this is obviously his dream. He says he wants to go to America, we say we will help him if he does. He speaks of his many travels to Spain, to Israel to find a place where he belongs, a job which is right for him, a girl who is perfect. He speaks of in Spain how everything he had was stolen and he had to hitch-hike back. But he still loves and trusts people.
There are frequent miscommunications. At times it seems like he speaks english very well, and sometimes not at all. He uses the word expensive to mean rare, or valuable. He says girls like cindy are very expensive where he is from. A couple hundred k into the ride, the freezer on the truck begins to have problems. He is transporting 30 tons of fruits and vegetables to Estonia but the freezer keeps shutting off. We switches it back on every couple of rest stops but eventually we must stop and really take a look at it.
Turns out it is caput. And it is dark. Still promising Berlin (though I'm not sure how Cindy and I will get from the highway into the city when it is this late) Sergey says we must go back to Hanover for repairs. When we get into Hanover, the repair place is closed. I think to myself it would be better just to make the drive all in one go than to wait around and get the freezer fixed but I don't say this. I am getting worried about tonight's plans, because we are not going to get to Berlin. I keep having trouble releasing my ego, my plans, my mistrust. I am upset that we are not in Berlin, that we won't get to Berlin tonight. I think this means we are losing a day in Berlin, out of a limited number of days. I am stuck in this mentality, and it makes me enjoy the time less. Cindy has no trouble relinquishing herself to this experience. She trusts Sergey and feels very comfortable with me there I think, so she is along for the ride. She is not unhappy we aren't in Berlin, she is enjoying getting to know this lifestyle and this man. And he is so innocent, so excitable and happy and completely unaffected by his truck troubles. He tells me, "this is not my problem" when the freezer does not work or his boss is mad. He is just driving home to Estonia where he will buy a car and study in Norway and hopefully find a girl to raise a family with.
Eventually I am able to let go of my control, my plans, my expectations, but it is through a long meditation in the car.
Sergey shares everything with us. He gives us apples, carrots, chips, anything he has. At night when we settle in, he gives us the beds, even after I try to sleep in the passenger seat. He cooks vegetables for us and turns on Harry Potter on his computer. He is just so earnest, so kind. He is the little prince, on his way to find a true home and a girl (cindy first voiced this idea). Going to sleep is hard, as I still cannot completely release my mistrust, completely let go of control, completely believe Sergey. I listen closely to the sounds of he and Cindy, worried that he may try to make a move and I must be ready to jump down and wrestle with him in the enclosed space of the car. They speak a few words together. Cindy tells him to get comfortable and everything is great for her. She thanks him profusely for everything. He says, "no no, it is nothing. this is all mine...yours. this time with you....is very expensive...for me." It may be one of the cutest most beautiful things I have ever heard. I fall asleep shortly after this.
In the morning we go to get the freezer fixed and pick up some food. Sergey gets 3 of everything and we pick up some sandwich materials.
At the bus stop CIndy and I talk much of Sergey, who he was and why he was so special. We smile at every car that passes us and wave our signs. We are worried there are not many cars at this station. But a man sees the sign and signals me over. He says he is going to Berlin. After scoping him out a bit I say, oh would you mind taking my friend and I? that would be so helpful. He says, why do you think I waved you over, and chuckles. We are saved. We are going to Berlin. Andreus is a very nice older man, a portly gentleman who lives on his own in the city and enjoys his simple pleasures. Upon getting in the car, Cindy quickly falls asleep leaving Andreus and I for a few hours. Andreus drives very fast, about 180k/hr the whole way, almost getting pulled over by the polizei.He shows me remnants of the Berlin wall, the check point where you used to have to go through between East and West. An abandoned check-in at a forgotten border.
We don't use that hostel but find one more central after a few hours of wandering. The comfy little corner hostel we wanted to go to is abandoned, and we are growing tired as it grows dark.
We get currywurst and beer at a small shop around the corner, then head off in search of different food. We find a crepe place and sit down to eat there. Spinach, cheese, mushrooms, tomatoes. Delicious. And scrumptious beer to go along with it. This is heaven.
We continue to wander the streets (a favorite phrase of mine on this blog) in search of popping clubs or cool nooks in the city. We find a park which is still open (at what is about midnight). We have a drink in there and play on the children's toys. There are large circular boards on springs which we jump onto and they immediately begin to wobble. We both giggle uncontrollably and hold on to each other as we try to keep from falling off. I eventually gain my balance and jump from board to board. I then feel the need to calm and center myself, so I try to stop the board from moving at all. This is very difficult but I achieve it. We then climb across some rickety logs, up a wooden structure, acorss a web of rope to sit on the edge of the park and smoke. It is beautiful out, and I feel like a young child.
We get a bit lost coming back. There is a nervousness of being lost, but it is never too powerful because I always have myself. A small unique point in darkness. What is the world but the consumption of world as part of awaiting and fearing death through time. I am temporally, temporalizing myself and there is no worry. I am a small point that will continue within a large circle for the time it has and will have.
At the quiet starts of cobweb conversations in midnight hostel cafes, the silence hums like computer screens, like the pregnantly still waters of a bridged canal.
In the morning, I'm caught by a waitress at pegasus trying to take a 2nd capuccino for cindy and I. We walk through Berlin taking in the sites, the incorporation of art into the city. The city is spread out with wide boulevards. It isn't hard to imagine mass demonstrations, riots, parades of Nazis marching down these streets. But God this city is beautiful.
We walk through the museum district, along the water and stop in the sun to have a beer and gaze at what I think is the Reichstag. In the presence of such old, traditional, infinite buildings Cindy and I discuss the vicissitudes of our lives, our friends, our small troubles and feelings. We do not feel too small. We are not too small. Love is not so small.
(As I write this, Smurf (a polish friend), comes in to try on my flannel and hat. She looks very cute in the oversized shirt, smiling and turning awkwardly.)

We go into small artists courtyard with restaurants, fountains and art galleries.
We walk past museums, churches, lawns full of drunk and high college students to the holocaust memorial. This place.
You cannot see the stones getting larger, but you can feel it somehow, somehow they are all the same size. Children are laughing and playing together amongst the forest of stone. Glimpses of faces, brief between he stones down long roads, sights of the outside down long winding but cut pathways. A maze, all open, graves all closed. The sky is burying, the people are lost. In the heart of the city. Look at medusa's face through the lens of a camera, that and laughter are protection. The stone rises above, confused whether the ground has changed or the world around has risen, climb up to the light, place a stone on a stone, I'm a stone of remembrance just like some of Nate's rocks were apologies.
Here is a video of walking through the memorial. It is hard to upload it to the blog. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNi-ERdpJ1U&feature=youtu.be
Later that night we came back to the memorial to smoke a j and drink a beer looking out on the city from atop the stones.
We go to a shopping center to check it out and buy some beers to go into the tiergarten. We buy a 6 pack and some gluhwein for insane cheap and head into the park. As we walk out of the center, the sun is setting over the cars and waters and buildings. All is reflective. Sometime I think everything is just a reflection. But what is that, just?
We find a gorgeous peaceful spot beside a reflection pool in the tiergarten, across from an older gentleman smoking weed. We sit and drink for a while, shooting the shit, drinking in the night air, glowing with Berlin's glow.
We walk back somewhat drunkenly to the hostel. There we drink more and head out again for dinner. We find a good spot around 1130 and have a good russian meal in germany. Cindy is about to pass out so we head back. We part ways in the morning. I have mixed feelings. I am glad to be out on my own again, but it is wonderful to be with Cindy. She knows how to travel, how to live really. I have tremendous respect for her, as she lives with confidence but also with openness. But it will be good to be completely alone. She goes to Italy. I go to Poland.
She wakes me up briefly in the morning as she goes. I say goodbye groggily and head back to sleep.
I wake up, pack up, clear both of our beds, and head to the subway. I take a few free trams to Michendorf outside the city. I then walk a few kilometers, never sure if I am going the right way, to the autobahn. I get onto the autobahn on one side, not sure if it is in the right direction. Turns out it is. I begin to hitch, munching on red grapes as I do.
In the truck, the keep giving me polish beers. They teach me polish swear words. This bear of a man, and tattooed prison-inmate are so kind and friendly and warm. Gregory, the driver, barely speaks as his English is not so good. Tattooed on his arm is, there is only one for me. He is married. Bartek is not, he admits bashfully. They drop me off at a crossroads, telling me in a few kilometers is another gas station to hitch a ride. Great I say, thanking them profusely for their kindness. A bit tipsy after the 5 beers in the car, I stroll down the road, pausing to piss in the woods.
I arrive at the gas station, but something is not right. There are barely any cars and most just shake their head at me.
The next day I wake up early to start hitching. It is a bad spot next to the hotel. There is an on ramp to the autobahn east, but not many cars go by it. I stare at each car with pleading eyes. Many bicyclists go by me and we laugh together as I stick up my thumb for them. They motion to the backs of their bikes and mumble in German. I laugh and say yaya ya. After 3 hours I stop using my sign and just use my thumb. A man pulls over asking something in Polish. I hold up the sign Wroclaw but say anywhere along this road. He says, in broken english, " I go to wroclaw, on way" I jump for joy and giggle. I throw my things in the car and hop in. His name is Jacek. He works on "classic cars." He hands me a brochure. It says, "Passion steers us well." A very clever phrase when he manufactures and installs steering parts in old cars.
I am with him for a few hours. Driving through the sunlight, we laugh as we try to communicate. English and Russian. He is frustrated I don't speak German. We use our hands. He speaks of his wife and children; he shows me pictures. I show him pictures of the other drivers, of cindy, and of berlin. He is amazed by my trip. He shakes his head a lot in wonder. We stop by a restaurant and he buys me soup. It is very good. He is so kind.
They check his car, his documents and then move on to me. I am very nervous because I don't speak the language and I don't know if what I am doing is legal. I sit silently until they ask me questions. Jacek explains that I am a hitch-hiker from England from America. I give them my passport and they check. I say I came from Amsterdam and one says something about cannabis. I blurt out, "No no no, I don't have any cannabis." Both police laugh. "We did not ask." My documents are ok and they let us go. Whew. Everything is correct and in order in the German way. A policeman with deep cut lines/wrinkles in a leather face with startling blu eyes tells me only 3 months. I say I'll only be 2 days.
As we get close to Wroclaw, I get a call from Birthright. They want to interview me now. I apologize to Jacek and say ok. As the interview goes on, Jacek pulls over outside Wroclaw. He is telling me goodbye and letting me out. I mumble something to the birthright person and put the phone down to hug Jacek. He is such a sweet man and he was so helpful. He drives off after a picture in the sunlight.
I finish the interview in the gas station. Beside me is another hitch-hiker. I go out, holding up my Wroclaw sign and he laughs at me. He says, "You are in Wroclaw." Go to the other side, take the Auchan bus into town.
I walk across, go in to buy some water and vodka for my hosts then take the free bus into town. On the bus I meet some fellow hitch-hikers.
I walk around the city, which is spaced-out like Berlin. There are many abandoned buildings, old looking, like 1900, with graffiti all over them.

I get to the mall and buy a universal adapter. There is some kind of fashion shoot/show being filmed in the middle of the mall. I watch a bit and listen to Polish conversations. Lots of "ssss and shhhhh." In Russian, there is a lot of "ugh and uuuy."
I go to a park on the water and sit and eat.


I stroll about a bit more, then go into coffee heaven for internet and to sit and wait for my hosts. I skype with some people with headphones in in the place. I get many weird looks for my English, but I don't care. Klaudia, Marta, and Arletta stroll in and they look quite young. We exchange hugs and I pack up my things to leave. We walk a bit to their place and they show me a room all my own. They are so kind. They give me food and I give them vodka. We drink the vodka and get to know each other. We joke in English. They have a roommate Pola who is very beautiful. We immediately take a liking to each other, talking of Amsterdam and music festivals, house music and drugs.
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One of Pola's collages |
The next day we wake up late because the girls are hung-over. I talk to Dan about meeting up, but we never do. I go to the Synagogue under the White Stork. It is beautiful, not so old, but in a very old courtyard. There is a museum of Polish Jewery inside. Such interesting information about Polish Jews since 1206. In olden times, Jews had their flesh stripped off while they were still alive then burned in front of them. It has been hard for Jews everywhere, always.
But not now. Life is easy for me. The girls keep asking if I am bored and I just laugh. How could I ever be bored?
We buy some beers and go to hangout at Vespa (the island). There are tons of young people all drinking and smoking in public, though it is illegal. Smurf, the girls friend from home, comes to meet us.
On the way I buy some wine for dinner.
Marta cooks a traditional polish dish which is basically fried chicken, mashed potatoes, and coleslaw. It is delicious. They will not let me pay or clean up or anything. I feel bad but it is so nice of them. We end up staying in all night though they wanted to go out and party. We drink A LOT and a few go out to buy more vodka (3 bottles). We play wa, a polish drinking game, kings, and then it all dissolves into mumbling.
And now, after 2 days of work I have finished this very long post. For getting through it I congratulate you. This is my life. It is so very wonderful. I am so very happy right now. These are the best days of my life. It is all too much, too beautiful, too present. And yet it moves as it stays, it changes as it goes, it wonders as it flows. All water toward the ocean. I meditate for about an hour. Then do dishes for an hour.
Until next time. See you Space cowboy. Budah dah duh doo dah doo dunh.
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